Saturday, August 8, 2015

Surf report (new board edition)

Surfing competition at Surfrider Beach in Malibu where we've been the last couple days.  Too bad.  We headed up the coast to an un-named stretch of beach a few miles up.  Surf was weird.  Tide was out when we arrived and there seemed to be a decent break.  Got down and paddled out.  As tide came in the waves were rolling in looking great but then there was a weird bump in the middle of the wave and they would fail to break until they got to the area of the shore break.  Paddling in made you feel like you were about to catch a wave any second, but then it never broke and you fell out the back.

Here's what it looked like as we were unloading the boards:

The new board feels pretty sweet. Super stable but controllable.  I got my feet under me a couple times but mostly in the shore break where it was really churning so no chance (for me) of actually staying on my feet.  One wave that I thought I was going to catch I waited too long to stand up and nose dived as I was getting up.

All in all an OK day out on the water (although my brother was freezing I found it pleasant, being from a colder clime) but it would have been nicer if we had better waves or had been there during the lower tide.

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